6th – 15th November 2025
*Fully Booked*
A trip to delight all the senses and feed your adventurous spirit. We have designed a journey across an intriguing region of Japan, a pilgrimage of sorts. We will trace the shift of power from Kyoto to Tokyo, following the paths of Emperors and Shoguns. We will follow the Tokaido trail from the Imperial capital of Kyoto to the Shogunal fortress of Edo (modern day Tokyo). Along the route we will explore the Imperial shrine of Ise Jingu and the mausoleum of the Tokugawa Shoguns in Nikko, where great halls were erected to rival the divine power of the Chrysanthemum throne. During our travels we will concentrate on the artisans of this fascinating country, from silk weaving and ceramics to tea whisks and matcha making.
We will start in Kyoto, home to no less than seventeen UNESCO World Heritage Sites. We will seek out the best temples, craft museums and gardens full of autumn colour or koyo. We will then move on to an area most tourists do not venture, Ise-Shima. Here we discover Shintoism and the Ama, female free divers. We shall then move from one extreme to another with two nights in Tokyo, a city constantly on the move, full of bright lights and towering contemporary architecture. We will finish in Nikko, with the breathtakingly lavish shogun mausoleums deep within giant cedar woods.
All our hotels have a character in keeping with each area. Kyoto and Tokyo are beautifully sophisticated with wonderful breakfasts. In Ise we will stay in a traditional ryokan with private onsens on each balcony overlooking the forest. In Nikko we stay outside the town in an upmarket ryokan on the Kinugawa River, all rooms have a private onsen with views of some of the best koyo to be found in Japan. Food will also play a major part in our trip and we will taste a huge range of dishes local to each area.
Itinerary
Thursday 6th November
Our coach will collect us from the airport mid-morning and we will drive to the hotel. Once we have dropped our bags we will head off for a light lunch before exploring Kodai ji Temple. Built in 1606, this will be a perfect introduction to the various themes we will follow during our journey. We will discuss two of our main characters Toyotomi Hideyoshi and Togugawa Ieyasu who both played an important role in Japanese history. We will see our first richly decorated interiors and a striking Zen Garden, complete with two teahouses designed by the great Tea Master Sen no Rikyu. We will then walk back to our hotel though some beautiful streets lined with traditional wooden homes, teahouses and temples.
There will be some time to relax and unpack before we head out to dinner in Gion, the sense of history is everywhere here with some streets still lined with 17th century teahouses and restaurants. We may be lucky enough to glimpse geisha on their way to work, we can chat about this fascinating tradition and see some of the more famous teahouses. We will try shabu shabu for supper, a delicious Japanese version of a fondue.
Friday 7th November
The day will start early at Sanjusangen-do with the most remarkable vision of 1001 statues of the Buddhist deity. These statues carved out of Japanese cedar dating from the 12th century stretch as far as the eye can see. We will then drive on to Nijo-jo Castle, a World Heritage Site, full of history and wonderful things. We can get an excellent idea of how the Shoguns lived and the idea of hierarchy under Tokugawa rule. There are some fabulous screens and an intriguing nightingale floor. We will walk through the lovely garden on our way out.
For lunch we will have a private room in what was once an old teahouse with a beautiful garden. Our final visit of the day will be to the jewel of a garden, Murin-an. This garden designed as a private residence is hidden from the city behind high walls, yet there is a feeling of space and tranquility within. Water flows through the garden and on close inspection you see it is carefully controlled as it runs down a waterfall, trickles though stepping stones and seeps through a rocky step, all the while creating different music to relax you. We spotted a gardener wearing special shoes designed to not harm the mossy banks. There is a lovely teahouse here to finish off. We hope to end early afternoon to allow time for a rest and to use the hotel onsen. Supper at a great place which serves Yakitori (a sophisticated version of meat and veg on skewers.)
Saturday 8th November
After a more relaxed start we will visit the house of 20th century ceramist Kawai Kanjiro. Tucked down a small backstreet, the unassuming wooden front hides a perfectly preserved house, studio and ‘noborigama’ kiln. Kanjiro was inspired by Bernard Leach at the age of 21 and went on to build a very successful workshop. The house is not only full of his own works but also those of his contemporaries. We will then visit a traditional merchant’s house in Nishijin, the weavers’ district, where there are 14 original hand-looms still in use. We will be able to watch the silk weavers at work before seeing a selection of their antique Kimono and obi collection. Kyoto is renowned for pickling and so for lunch we will visit the one of the oldest pickle stores in the city and learn about the various methods of this ancient craft.
In the afternoon, if we are lucky we hope to visit Kokodera, otherwise known as Saihoj which has a remarkable moss garden with over 120 varieties of moss. On entering all visitors must take part in kito and shakyo (the chanting and copying of Buddhist sutras) where we will be given scriptures to copy. This visit can only be requested two months ahead and is by no means guaranteed, if we are unsuccessful we have an excellent alternative. For supper we could try okonomiyaki at a good place we know. A mix of a savoury pancake and omelet which you grill yourself choosing a variety of toppings.
Sunday 9th November
There will be some time in the morning for a well-deserved rest, exploring a temple, a museum or shopping, for example Ginkaku-ji, Temple of the Silver Pavilion or Kyoto National Museum. We will be on hand with suggestions. We will meet up mid-morning to head for to Ise, the first stage of our pilgrimage route. On the way we will stop first for lunch and then at a remarkable traditional house of a chasen master in the mountains. The 500 year-old skill of creating tea whisks has been passed down for 20 generations within the same family and the current master will give us a demonstration before teaching us how to prepare matcha and finish off our own chasen to take home. In this way we will gain a small insight into the ancient tradition of the Japanese tea ceremony.
On arrival at our ryokan we will choose a yukata to wear for our stay here and there may be time for a quick dip in your private onsen with a view of the forest before a kaiseki dinner in the dining room.
Monday 10th November
We will we start the day at Meoto Iwa (The Wedded Rocks), just off the coast of Futami. These sacred rocks are bound together by shimenawa rope and can be seen very clearly from the shore. We will then spend the day at Ise Jingu, the most venerated shinto sanctuary in Japan covering a vast area with 125 shrines spread throughout the forest. We will start with the outer shrine of Toyo’uke-daijingu or Geku, created 1,500 years ago to house Toyo’uke no Omikami, the goddess of agriculture and harvests. The structures are simple yet exquisitely crafted, built with unvarnished Japanese cypress with thatched roofs and the striking detail of gold leaf painted on the ends of beams. A far cry from the familiar vermillion torii gates we are used to. The whole site is immersed in nature with a river flowing through.
Lunch will be in the atmospheric and bustling Oharaimachi area, dating from the Edo period to feed the thousands of pilgrims who the visit the shrines. We will then cross the famous Ujibashi bridge, spanning the Isuzu-gawa river and symbolising the passage from the earthly world to the territory of gods. We will visit the most sacred shrine of all, Kotai-jingu or Naiku, the Inner Shrine. The site was dedicated to the sun goddess Amaterasu Omikami 2,000 years ago and is the home to one of the three divine items of Japan’s Imperial Treasures, the Holy Mirror. All Japanese Emperors are thought to be direct descendants of the goddess, adding to the importance of this complex. At both shrines we will find the Kodenchi, this is to be the new site for the sacred spaces as remarkably they are rebuilt every 20 years. It is just a short walk back to our Ryokan, so people are free to return to Oharaimachi to shop or have tea. Dinner will be back at the Ryokan.
Tuesday 11th November
In the morning, we will explore the Ise-Shima peninsula, focusing on local food production and traditions. We hope to see the Ama in action – female free divers, who were essential in the early production of pearls and they still continue to dive for shellfish around the coast of Ise-Shima. We will also look at traditional fishing techniques and seaweed harvesting. We will start the next leg of our pilgrimage and head towards Tokyo. We will follow the Ise-Shima Skyline which has stunning views over the mountains, forests, sea and islands in the bay. Our coach will drop us at our train bound for Tokyo. We will arrive in time for a quick rest at the hotel for heading out for dinner close by.
Wednesday 12th November
In the morning we will walk through the Ueno Park to the Tokyo National Museum. This vast museum houses an exceptional collection of ceramics, textiles, sculptures and paintings, as well as a delightful assortment of Netsuke. The display changes with the seasons and we will select a few of the best to see. One of the highlights of this museum is the archaeological section with some of the oldest pottery in the world. There are fabulous Jomon figurines and pots from 1000 BC and incredible terracotta Kofun Tomb sculptures from the 6th century.
Lunch will be at a strikingly elegant place just off the famous Omote Sando stretch, we will see the fantastic contemporary architecture in passing. A short walk will take us to the Nezu Museum, this beautifully designed building by Kuma Kengo is matched only by the fantastic collection it houses. While we are there, they are hosting the exhibition The Tales of Ise: Courtly Love and Poems Reflected in Arts which will include some beautiful items. We shall have a quick rest in the lovely tea house overlooking the museum’s wonderful garden before having a wander through it. Designed using ideas from all aspects of Japanese gardens through the ages, this will be a perfect summary of what we have seen. For supper we will go to great traditional restaurant in a lively area near the hotel.
Thursday 13th November
Taking an overnight bag, we will set off on the final leg of our pilgrimage to Nikko. The town had already been an important centre for both Shinto and Buddhist worship, but the building of the Tokugawa Mausoleums really put this small place on the map. We will visit the Tamozawa Imperial Villa, the summer residence of the Imperial family. Parts of the building come from Tokyo and were moved here and enlarged, it is an interesting combination of Edo and early modern Meiji period architecture. The villa has been beautifully restored using traditional techniques and there are interesting displays concentrating on all of the intricate crafts involved in creating a Japanese villa. It also has possibly the most beautiful billiard room I have seen. Views throughout the villa look on to the lovely garden which should be ablaze with colour when we visit. We will then walk to the Kanmangafuchi Abyss and follow the path along the gorge. The way is lined with about 70 stone statues of the Bodhisattva, Jizo all wearing little red crocheted hats. We will drive on to our ryokan overlooking the Kinugawa River. There will be time for a soak in our private onsen before a kaiseki dinner in our private dining room. The hotel uses seasonal ingredients from the Tochigi rivers and mountains, all served in Mashiko ceramics and they carefully pair the dishes with the bowls. Supper will be a work of art. For those who wish, there will be a ‘Mashiko Masterclass’ held for all guests after supper.
Friday 14th November
In order to beat the pilgrim rush we will head out early to see the Tokugawa Mausoleums. We will first explore Taiyuin, the mausoleum of the third Tokugawa shogun, Iemitsu. After passing through various brightly lacquered and intricately carved gates, guarded by huge statues of wonderfully fierce Temple Guardians, we follow a line of moss covered stone lanterns to the mausoleum hidden behind the Kokamon Gate or ‘Gate of the Dragon Shrine’. A short walk takes us to the Toshogu Shrine, an incredibly lavish memorial to Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate. It is hard to express how detailed and ornate this complex is. No expense was spared in creating these storehouses, belltowers, halls and shrines coated in rich colours and gold leaf, all set against the perfect backdrop of the dark forest and towering trees.
On our way back, we will drop in to Rinnoji Temple, which was founded by Shodo Shonin who introduced Buddhism to Nikko in the 8th century. Inside we can see three large, gold lacquered wooden statues of Amida, Senju-Kannon and Bato-Kannon, the three deities regarded as Buddhist manifestations of Nikko’s three mountain deities. After a quick lunch of soba noodles we will take the train back to Tokyo for one last farewell dinner.
Saturday 15th November
In the morning we will head to the airport for our flight home.
Further Details
Tutors- Alys Fowler and Charlie Winton will lead the trip. Both tutors have lectured for AHA for many years and this will be their fourth trip to Japan. Alys is bringing her expertise in horticulture to our garden and forest visits. We will be accompanied by Sayuri Inman, who is a horticulturalist and grew up in both Tokyo and London. Sayuri is fluent in Japanese. In Tokyo we will be joined by Yoko Hara who knows the city well.
Hotels – In Kyoto we will stay at the Celestine Kyoto Gion, thoughtfully designed with a fusion of Japanese and western style bedrooms. It has a great bar and a sento, communal hot baths. Perfectly located in the Gion district. In Ise we will stay at Ikyu, a ryokan with Japanese style rooms with tatami mats and futons, each room has a private onsen and forest view. In Tokyo we will stay at the Celestine Shiba hotel, a beautifully designed hotel taking inspiration from the Edo period and situated in a good area of the city. In Nikko we will stay at Kai Kinugawa, an upmarket ryokan with a variety of communal onsens, excellent food and all rooms have la private onsen. We will return to the Tokyo hotel for our last night. Please note, as is common in many Japanese hotels many of the rooms will be large twin beds.
Please let me know if you would like to extend your stay in either of the Celestine Hotels.
Transport – We will make use of the highly efficient train service where possible and a private coach for other journeys. It is essential you are aware that there will be a lot of travelling. For long coach journeys we have broken them up with an interesting stop. The longest journey will be from Ise to Tokyo which will be a combination of coach and train and will be around 3 ½ hours. Nikko is 2 hours by train from Tokyo.
Arriving early – Due to the pace of this trip we would encourage you to arrive a day early to recover from jetlag. You can stay at an airport hotel and meet the group on arrival at the airport or travel on to Kyoto and meet us there.
Ability – You do need to be fit and healthy for this trip. There is a lot of walking, some on uneven terrain. For every temple and villa you need to remove shoes and put on slippers, possibly as many times as ten in a day and there is not always a bench to sit on to do this. As is the case for all our courses, there is a lot of standing while we discuss the works we are looking at. In several of the restaurants we will be sitting on the floor at low tables to eat, some places provide a low stool, but not all. You do need to be open minded about food as not all requirements can be catered for in some places and you need to be adventurous!
Breakfasts, Lunches and Dinners – Lunches are a set menu of two courses to include drinks. Dinner is by no means compulsory, but we book a table for the group each night at different restaurants and divide the bill equally between everyone. Most of the dinners will be a set menu. We will adjust the bill for those not drinking alcohol. Dinners at Ise and Nikko are included in the fees and will be kaiseki served in the hotel. Breakfasts in Ise and Nikko will be a Japanese style savoury breakfast.
Flights – We do not book the flights thus allowing you to travel to suit your budget, use airmiles, travel between different airports or on different dates. NB You must book your flight to leave for at least the day before the course starts. We recommend the following with British Airways:
5th Nov (arriving 6th Nov) Heathrow 09.05 – 10.40 Itami, Osaka (via Tokyo) BA0007 and BA4627
15th Nov Tokyo Haneda 9.50 – 15.15 Heathrow JL0043
(In order to book different cities on the BA website click on ‘multi city’. Buying two singles will be a lot more expensive)
Cost – The fees are £5950 which includes accommodation and breakfast, all lunches including drinks, three excellent dinners (drinks extra), transfers for the recommended flight, bullet trains, transport when connected with teaching, entrance fees, whisk workshop, tuition, reading lists and local advice. The single room supplement is £550 (double room for single use). Please state on the form if you would be happy to share if available. Not included are the flights, all other suppers and travel insurance. The group will not exceed 16 people.
To Register – Please complete the online registration form, having read our terms and conditions and pay a deposit of £600 via bank transfer. Your place is not confirmed until we have received the deposit.
NB You must buy your own flights
